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[Bali life] A special, but usual day in the rainy season at Batu Bolong

Hi I am Takeshi a surfer father and CEO of

Last time I announced that I would buy a longboard again and it so happened that I got this almost new wooden surfboard for an unbelievable price. I'm not allowed to write about the board's details, but it's a beautiful wooden surfboard, and I wondered if this is the kind of board that Hawaiians used to surf. My eldest son was surfing on this board, and I used his soft board. I thought it was a triple stringer surfboard that would never break, but it broke in half. I'm half sad because it was the board that taught me the joy of softboarding and opened the door to longboarding to my son. I'm sorry for your loss.

My second son has started to ride a fishboard without complaining in these lazy waves. Somehow, his style has become more like my eldest son's narrow stance surfing.

Shareriding with my second son was a venerable and efficient form of surfing long before the advent of Uber, but it was outlawed as a drop-in during the heyday of shortboarding, and returned as a symbol of happy surfing around the time of Uber. It's back.

The surf was so good that I got back to the office five minutes before the morning meeting started. I sat in front of the computer with my hair wet. Tomorrow is Christmas. Merry Christmas!

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